The full guide

Buying an Exotic Car in Florida: The Complete Guide

Buying an exotic car in Florida comes down to five things done in order: choose where you buy, inspect the car, read the history report knowing what it leaves out, understand what AS-IS and a deposit mean, and know the out the door number before you sign. That number is the price plus 6 percent state sales tax, a county surtax on the first $5,000 only, $695 for title, tag and docs, and $225 only when you have no Florida plate to transfer. Financing is arranged through third-party lenders, delivery is available nationwide, and the first month is title, registration, insurance, a first service and somewhere to keep the car.

By AutoVault · Published September 20, 2026

A red 2010 Ferrari California in the AutoVault studio, front three-quarter view.

How the South Florida exotic market works

South Florida is a busy exotic car market, and the reason is simple. A lot of these cars live here, and a lot of them pass through here. Miami is a port city with buyers from across the United States, Latin America and Europe, so a car listed in North Miami on a Monday can be on a truck to Texas or in a container by Friday. Cars come in from private sellers, from trade-ins and from dealer-only auctions. They go out to local buyers, to out of state buyers who want a car that has never seen road salt, and to exporters.

That flow is what makes the market fast. A clean, well-priced car at a dealer here does not sit. The stock at AutoVault is small and it rotates, and the car you looked at last week may already have gone. The same flow makes the market deep. Whatever you want, there is usually more than one of it for sale here, so you never have to buy the wrong one because it was the only one.

Speed cuts both ways. The pace that gives you choice gives a careless buyer very little time to think, and a certain kind of seller counts on that. A repainted car, a car that came through an auction with a damage announcement, and a car whose history report is clean because nobody reported anything all look the same in a photograph. The way to avoid getting burned is not to move slower than the market. It is to know before you start what you will check and what the number is going to be when you sign.

This guide walks through that in order, from where to buy to what to do in the first month. Every tax and fee figure on this page comes from a state or federal document, or from our own terms, and each one is named in the Sources at the end.

Dealer, private seller or auction

There are three ways to buy a used exotic in Florida. Each one puts a different share of the work, and of the risk, on you.

A licensed dealer

A licensed Florida dealer has to do certain things by law. The Federal Trade Commission's Used Car Rule requires a Buyers Guide displayed in every used car offered for sale, and that guide states whether the car comes with a warranty or is sold AS-IS. The dealer applies for the tag and title within 30 days, and you drive on a temporary paper tag in the meantime. If the dealer takes a deposit, Florida law requires a written receipt that says how long the car is held and whether the deposit is refundable. The dealer cannot advertise a price without identifying the car by year, make and model, and cannot raise the price after accepting your order. A dealer sale is also the only one of the three where financing, a trade-in, tax, title and registration are handled in one place.

What a dealer does not give you is a cooling-off period. Florida has none for motor vehicle purchases, whoever you buy from.

A private seller

A private sale can be cheaper, because there is no dealer in the middle. It also puts everything on you. FLHSMV's own guidance for private sales is blunt: buyers do not have the same protections as when purchasing from a licensed dealer, and there is no Lemon Law for used cars in Florida. There is no Buyers Guide. You check that the name on the seller's driver license matches the name on the title, that the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the car, and that any lien on the title has been satisfied. You apply for the title and registration yourself, within 30 days, or a late penalty is added. Florida sales tax is due on a private sale too, and settling it is on you. That is a lot of steps to get right with a stranger.

An auction

Most of the auctions that move exotic cars in Florida are dealer-only wholesale auctions, and the public cannot bid at them. Part of the AutoVault stock comes from those auctions, and our terms say so. What matters to you is how those cars are sold: with announcements. A car at a wholesale auction may be announced with structural damage, prior repair, a mileage discrepancy or missing equipment, and those announcements, and the auction's own condition report, frequently never reach CARFAX or AutoCheck. Where we have actual knowledge of an announcement on a car, it goes in the listing and on a separate written disclosure you sign at the sale.

Public and online auctions are a different thing. You are buying a car as it sits, usually from photographs, with the auction's own charges and transport on top of the hammer price, and rarely with time for a proper inspection.

What a pre-purchase inspection covers

On an ordinary used car an inspection is a courtesy. On an exotic it is the whole game. Our terms say it plainly: every buyer should inspect the car personally or have it inspected by an independent qualified third party of the buyer's choosing, at the buyer's expense, before purchase, and we will make any car available for that. The FTC's Buyers Guide says the same thing from the window of every used car: ask to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy.

A proper pre-purchase inspection on an exotic is done by a specialist in that make, not a general shop. Expect it to include:

  • Paint depth readings on every panel. A gauge shows where paint is thicker than factory, which is where a panel has been resprayed. A repaint is not always a crash. It is always a question.
  • Panel gaps, bolt heads and the underbody. Fasteners with tool marks, mismatched seam sealer and a wavy floor are how a repaired car tells on itself when the history report will not.
  • A scan with the factory diagnostic tool. Not a generic code reader. The factory tool reads stored faults and, on many models, the mileage at which each fault was logged and how hard the engine has been run.
  • The service items that are expensive on that model. Belt services, clutches, carbon ceramic brake wear, gearbox actuators, air suspension, convertible roof mechanisms. Each make has its own list, and the inspector should know it.
  • Tires, brakes and fluids. Tire date codes, uneven wear that points to alignment or suspension damage, pad and disc measurements, fluid condition.
  • A road test with the inspector driving, listening for what a short drive around the lot will not show.
  • Keys, books, tools and the service record. Stamped books and invoices are worth more than a seller's word.

If you are out of state, ask for a walkaround video first, then send an inspector. We do this often. The cost of the inspection is yours, and it is the cheapest money in the whole transaction.

What a history report shows, and what it hides

A history report from CARFAX or AutoCheck is a record of events that were reported to that provider. That is the whole definition, and it explains both what the report is good for and where it fails.

It shows title history and title brands, such as salvage, rebuilt or flood. It shows odometer readings at each recorded event, which is how a rollback appears as a reading that goes backwards. It shows the number of owners and the states the car was registered in, accidents and damage that an insurer, a police report or a repair shop sent in, and service visits at shops that report. A car that came from a flood zone deserves a closer look at the carpets and the connectors.

It hides anything nobody reported. A crash settled in cash and repaired at a body shop that does not report never appears. A repaint never appears. Auction announcements and condition-report findings frequently do not appear, and our terms say exactly that. A report can also be out of date the day after it is printed, which is why we tell every buyer to pull a current one at the time of purchase, and why a report we make available is the provider's product and not our representation about the car.

Two checks belong next to the report. The first is the FLHSMV Motor Vehicle Information Check, the state's own title record, which FLHSMV tells buyers to use to verify the odometer reading and the title. The second is your own eyes on the title: the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the car, and any lien on the title is satisfied. The history report is where you start. The inspection is where you find out.

What sold AS-IS means in Florida

Every car AutoVault offers is sold AS-IS, with no warranty express or implied, unless stated otherwise in writing. That line is on our inventory page and it is on the FTC Buyers Guide displayed in the car. It is worth understanding exactly what it means, because it is the most misread phrase in the used car business.

AS-IS means the dealer gives no warranty. The Buyers Guide's own words for that box are AS IS, NO DEALER WARRANTY: the dealer does not provide a warranty for any repairs after sale. It means the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose are disclaimed to the extent Florida law allows, and our terms do that. It means spoken promises are difficult to enforce, which the Buyers Guide also says, and a salesperson cannot bind the dealership with a promise that is not in the signed sale documents.

AS-IS does not mean the dealer can say anything. Florida Statutes s. 501.976 lists what a dealer may not do: represent a car's previous usage or status as something it was not, represent its condition or servicing unless the dealer knows it to be true, claim a car has not had structural damage unless it was inspected for it, sell a car without disclosing its actual year and model, misrepresent warranty coverage, or fail to disclose in writing any warranty or guarantee that was given. AS-IS covers the car's unknown condition. It does not cover a false statement about its known condition.

AS-IS also does not come with a cooling-off period. Florida has none for motor vehicle purchases. All sales at AutoVault are final, with no return period, exchange period or money-back guarantee. If a written warranty or a service contract is part of your deal, it is stated at the time of sale, and only what is in writing counts. Read the Buyers Guide, the purchase agreement and the terms before you sign, not after.

How a deposit and a hold work

When you have found the car and you are not ready to sign the same day, a deposit holds it. Here is how that works at AutoVault, and where the rules come from.

A deposit holds the car from other sale for an agreed time, and that time is confirmed in writing. Whether the deposit is refundable, and on what conditions, is stated in writing when it is taken. That is not our policy alone. Florida law says a dealer may not accept a deposit unless the customer is given a written receipt that states how long the car will be held and the amount of the deposit, and clearly states whether and on what conditions the deposit is refundable or nonrefundable. If a dealer anywhere in Florida takes your money without that receipt, walk.

The deposit is applied to the purchase price. It does not, by itself, make a sale. A sale becomes binding only when the Retail Purchase Agreement is signed by both parties and funds have cleared. Until then the deposit is a hold on the car, not a purchase of it.

The practical sequence is short. Book a time to see the car, or ask for the walkaround video if you are out of state. Have it inspected. Agree the price and the hold period. Put down the deposit and take the receipt. Sign and fund.

How the out the door number is built

The out the door number on a Florida purchase has four parts, and only one of them is the price. The rest is set by the state, by your county, and by one fixed line of ours.

  1. The price, less any trade-in allowance. Florida taxes the price after the trade-in when the trade is part of the same transaction, so a trade lowers the tax as well as the amount you finance.
  2. Florida state sales tax at 6 percent of that taxable amount.
  3. Your county's discretionary sales surtax, which applies only to the first $5,000 of the taxable amount. The county is the one on your registration address, not the county the dealer sits in. In 2026 Miami-Dade and Broward are 1 percent, so the surtax on any car priced above $5,000 is $50. Palm Beach is 0.5 percent, so $25.
  4. $695 for title, tag and docs. One line, the same on every purchase, not taxed.

There is one more line, and only sometimes. If you have no valid Florida plate to transfer to the new car, the state charges a $225 initial registration fee, once. Move a plate you already hold and it drops out. Neither the title, tag and docs line nor the $225 is taxed.

LineHow it is worked outOn a $100,000 car, Miami-Dade
PriceAgreed price, less any trade-in$100,000.00
State sales tax6% of the taxable amount$6,000.00
County surtaxCounty rate on the first $5,000 only$50.00
Title, tag and docsFixed, not taxed$695.00
Initial registration feeOnly with no Florida plate to transfer$0.00 or $225.00
Out the doorPrice plus the four lines above$106,745.00 or $106,970.00

If you live in another state and will register the car at home, the arithmetic changes. Florida collects your home state's rate, capped at 6 percent, when Form DR-123 is signed in front of a notary at the time of sale and the car is registered at home within 45 days, and no county surtax applies. If we deliver the car to a common carrier, licensed exporter or freight forwarder for shipment out of Florida, no Florida sales tax is due at all. The Florida tax, tag and title calculator runs every one of these cases, for all 67 counties and for every state, and names the document each rate comes from. Run the car's price through it before you talk price.

How financing is arranged

AutoVault is not a lender. Financing is arranged through third-party lenders and is subject to credit approval. That sentence is the whole legal position, and it is also how it works in practice.

You send one application through the financing page. Sending it is not a credit application and does not affect your credit score. From there we take the application to multiple lenders, including lenders who regularly finance exotic and specialty cars that many banks will not touch, and we handle the paperwork through delivery. Not every applicant qualifies, and the rate, the term and the down payment a lender asks for depend on the lender, your credit profile and the car.

There are no numbers in this section, and that is deliberate. Under Regulation Z, an advertisement that states a payment amount, a down payment or a number of payments has to state the down payment, the terms of repayment and the annual percentage rate with it, so a monthly figure quoted on its own is not an estimate, it is a pitch. When you want to see what a payment looks like, put your own numbers into the exotic car payment calculator: the price, your down payment, a trade-in and the APR your lender quotes. It runs in your browser and sends nothing anywhere. It is an estimate only, not an offer of credit.

One practical point. If you are trading in a car with a lien on it, disclose the lien up front. The payoff is part of the deal, not a surprise at the end.

Shipping and delivery nationwide

Nationwide delivery is available. Many of our buyers are out of state, and we coordinate enclosed transport and delivery anywhere in the country. The cost, the timeline and the arrangements are confirmed separately for each car, because they depend on where it is going and how it travels.

A few things to know before the truck comes. Carriers are independent third parties, and a claim for damage in transit is made against the carrier and its insurance, so photograph the car at pickup and at delivery and note anything on the bill of lading before you sign for it. If you take delivery somewhere other than our dealership, you accept the car at that place and the risk of loss passes to you there. Ask for enclosed transport by name.

Tax follows the delivery. If you are present at the sale in Florida, you are presumed to have taken delivery here, and Florida tax applies as described above, reduced to your home state's rate with a DR-123 if you are a resident of another state, which buying a car in Florida from another state covers in full. If we hand the car to a common carrier or a licensed exporter for shipment out of Florida, no Florida sales tax is due. A private hauler you send yourself is not a common carrier. Say how you want the car moved before the paperwork is drawn up, because the tax line is set at the sale.

A temporary tag can be issued so an out of state buyer can drive the car home, where the law allows it. Out of state buyers then register the car at home and handle any tax, title and registration requirements there.

The first month

The car is home. Here is what happens next, in order.

Title and registration

On a dealer purchase in Florida, title and registration are processed after funds clear and the documents are signed, and the dealer applies for the tag and title within 30 days. You drive on a temporary paper tag until the plate comes through. Florida holds the title electronically, and a paper certificate is printed only when you ask for one. If you are financing, the lender's lien is recorded on the title. On a private purchase, the 30 days are yours to meet, and an application filed late adds a $20 penalty.

Insurance

Have the policy bound before the car moves, not after. Florida requires proof of personal injury protection and property damage liability insurance from a company licensed in Florida before a car can be registered, and a lender will require full coverage on top of that. For an exotic, ask the insurer about an agreed value policy and about coverage while the car is in storage or in transit.

A first service

Unless the inspection showed a recent service, book one. Fresh oil and fluids, a look at the brakes and tires, and the factory tool plugged in one more time. It gives you a clean baseline and starts your own service record. Small things found now stay small.

If you are not in town

Some buyers keep a car in Miami and live somewhere else for part of the year. If that is you, the car needs somewhere to sit that is not a hotel garage. AutoVault offers private, climate-controlled car storage in North Miami, from $1,200 a month, month to month with no long-term contract. The All-Inclusive plan at $1,999 adds auto services, detailing and cleaning, and delivery to and from the areas we serve. Drop off and collect by appointment.

Protection and finish

If you want paint protection film, a ceramic coating or a wrap on the new car, we arrange that work with the specialists we use and quote it for the car. See customizations. The first weeks, before the front end has met a Florida highway, are the right time for film.

Where to go from here

Three tools and one page do most of the work in this guide. The Florida tax, tag and title calculator turns a listed price into an out the door number for your county or your state. The exotic car payment calculator turns that number into a payment estimate from your own down payment and the APR your lender quotes. The car storage cost calculator prices the months a car will sit. And the inventory shows every car we have for sale today, at the price it is listed for.

When one of them is the car, book a time to see it, or call 877-420-9111 and ask for the walkaround video. Bring the checklist above. We would rather sell a car to a buyer who checked everything, because that buyer comes back.

From the vault

Most of the cars in the vault were bought by people who never set foot in Miami. They called, we walked the car on video, the inspection was theirs to arrange, and the car went out on a truck with a Florida title in hand. Buy the car, not the story. If a seller will not let you inspect it, that is the inspection.

AutoVault

Questions

Frequently asked

The price less any trade-in, plus 6 percent Florida sales tax, plus your county's surtax on the first $5,000 only, plus $695 for title, tag and docs. Add $225 initial registration only when you have no Florida plate to transfer. On a $100,000 car registered in Miami-Dade that is $106,745 with a plate to move over.
No. AS-IS means the dealer gives no warranty and you pay for repairs after the sale. Florida law still bars a dealer from misrepresenting a car's prior use, condition, damage, year or model, and an independent inspection before you buy is your real protection. There is no cooling-off period in Florida.
A deposit holds the car from other sale for an agreed time, confirmed in writing, and it is applied to the price. The written receipt states whether and on what conditions it is refundable, as Florida law requires. The sale is binding only when the purchase agreement is signed and funds have cleared.
Yes. With Form DR-123 signed before a notary at the sale and registration at home within 45 days, Florida collects your home state's rate, capped at 6 percent, with no county surtax. Delivery is available nationwide, and a car we hand to a common carrier for shipment out of state carries no Florida sales tax.
Yes, from a specialist in that make, at your expense, before you sign. It covers paint depth, underbody and panel fit, a scan with the factory diagnostic tool, the model's expensive service items, tires and brakes, and a road test. Every car at AutoVault can be inspected independently before sale.
Sources

Where the figures on this page come from